kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe wai kahe mana valve

ʻO Mr. Waterman he kanaka kiaʻi pāka aupuni kahiko a ʻo ia ka mea kākau o ka National Geographic's Atlas of National Parks. Aia ka muliwai ʻo Noatak ma ka ʻīpuka mamao o ka Arctic National Park ma ke komohana ʻākau o Alaska, e hoʻokuke ana i kā mākou waʻa i lalo a puhi i ka makani. . Nui ka laula o ke awāwa a hiki ke pilikia ʻoe inā ʻaʻole ʻoe i loaʻa ka binoculars a me ke kūkākūkā palapala ʻāina. I mea e pale ʻole ai i ka paʻi ʻana i ke kapa o ka muliwai, pono iaʻu ke nānā aku i ka muliwai kūpikipikiʻo me nā maka ʻoi a kākoʻo i ka hoe me nā lima ʻelua. ʻOiai ua hoʻokiʻekiʻe ka ua nui i ka muliwai mai nā kapa (a hoʻopaneʻe i ko mākou lele mokulele mai Bettles, Alaska no ʻekolu lā), ua holoi ʻia kēlā me kēia kahua hoʻomoana e ka lepo a pulu. Ua hala nā makahiki 36 mai koʻu lawelawe ʻana ma ke ʻano he alakaʻi ma ke kahawai ʻo Noatak. Ua hoihoi au i ka waonahele i ko'u ola a pau no ka hooulu hou ana i ka uhane, no laila ua koho au ia Noatak ma ke ano he huakai wao nahele hope loa e kaʻana like me kaʻu keiki 15 makahiki ʻo Alistair a me kekahi ʻohana. uahi ahi ma Colorado. Manaʻo wau he ʻāpana ʻoluʻolu kēia ma Far North. ʻO koʻu pūʻiwa, ua kokoke ka mahana i ka 90 degere Fahrenheit no ʻekolu mau lā. He mānoanoa kēia mau ʻōpala. Ua hele mai mākou i ʻAukake, me ka manaʻo o ka hau e hoʻomaka mau ana i kēlā mahina e pepehi i ke ao makika kaulana. Akā ua hoʻolōʻihi ʻia ka loli. ke kauwela a hoʻopaneʻe i ke anuanu, no laila pono mākou i nā ʻupena poʻo a me nā mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe. ʻAuʻau pinepine māua ʻo Alistair i ka muliwai e maʻalili. He hana kēia aʻu i noʻonoʻo ʻole ai i ka nui o nā huakaʻi i ka ʻākau anu. Mai kaʻu huakaʻi mua ma kēia mau kumu i ka makahiki 1982, ua piʻi ka mahana o ka Arctic i kekahi mau degere Fahrenheit. I kēlā manawa, ua ʻaʻahu mākou no ka hoʻoilo i ka pule mua o ʻAukake. Ua hoʻomehana ʻia ʻo ia ma ka ʻelua o ka awelika o ka honua. I ka wā i pā ai ka ʻino ma ʻAukake 5, ua hāʻule ka mahana i ʻoi aku ma mua o 50 degere, a i ka wā i neʻe aku ai mākou i waho o ka Arctic Gate a komo i ka Noatak National Reserve, ua hāʻule hou ka ua. eka, hana ia i ka nui loa unrestricted 'āina i loko o ka aina, sheltering i ka nui loa unaltered muliwai system.Aka i ka unusual cascading pane o ke aniau hoololi, i ka palekana kūlana o ka māhele 'aʻohe mea i kekahi oluolu. ʻO kekahi o lākou ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana o ka permafrost, kahi e uhi ana i kahi hapaha o ka ʻāpana ʻākau. Ua wehewehe au iā Alistair ua lawe ka hoʻomehana honua i ka permafrost mai loko mai o ka paʻukū kaulana. Ua hoʻoulu a hoʻoneʻe ka deposition i nā kaiāulu mea kanu kahiko i loko o ka lepo, e hoʻokuʻu koke iā lākou i ka permafrost ma mua o ka palaha ʻana o nā mea a pau. I kēia manawa, me he mea lā ua kau ʻia ka spinach maloʻo ma luna o ka pā kīhini. Ua hoʻomaka ʻo Permafrost e decompose a hoʻokuʻu i ke kalapona a me ka methane i loko o ka lewa-hoʻohui ʻia i nā kinoea ʻōmaʻomaʻo i hana ʻia e nā kānaka i kumu i ka hoʻomehana honua. I ka wā o ka piʻi ʻana o ka tundra i nā makahiki 1980, maloʻo loa koʻu mau wāwae; i kēia manawa, hoʻoluhi pinepine mākou i ko mākou mau kāmaʻa a hele ma waena o ka tundra i pulu i nā waimaka o ka hau. mau mile o ka hau keʻokeʻo i ʻike ʻia i ka makahiki 1985, he 4 mau mile kuea wale nō i koe i ka makahiki 2017. Ma Noatak, i ka wā i hāʻule ai nā pōhaku a ninini ʻia ke one i loko o ka muliwai, pono mākou e hoʻokele i kā mākou mau lāʻau a puni ke kahawai wai. paʻa ʻia me ka sediment shed. Ma kahi noiʻi hou o nā kahawai liʻiliʻi a me nā kahawai ma ia wahi, ʻike ʻia ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka permafrost e hoʻolili i ka wai, i ʻōlelo ʻia e nā mea olaola e hōʻino paha i ka hānau ʻana o ka salmon. I ka lele ʻana, ʻike pū mākou i kahi puddle i kapa ʻia ʻo thermokarst e holo wikiwiki ana i loko o ka tundra uliuli. I ka lilo ʻana o ke aniau i kūpono no lākou, ua neʻe hoʻi nā kumu lāʻau i ka ʻākau ma nā wahi tundra a me nā wahi mauʻu haʻahaʻa. ma ke kapa kiʻekiʻe o Noatak, i hoʻopuni ʻia e nā kumulāʻau dwarf birch a me nā mauʻu. Ma muli o ka hāʻawi ʻana o nā mea kanu i ka hapa nui o ka ikehu a me ka noho ʻana no nā holoholona hihiu, ke hoʻololi nei kēia "Arctic greening" i ka kaiaola holoʻokoʻa. uhi, he meaʻai pono ia no nā reindeer ʻoi aku ma mua o 250,000 e kaʻahele ana ma ia wahi, a hele kekahi o lākou i 2,700 mau mile i ka wahi hānau keiki. ʻOiai ua ʻike mākou i nā loli a pau, ua ʻona nō mākou i ka wao nahele mamao a hele ʻole ʻia i ka wā o ka 90-mile, ʻeono lā huakaʻi mai Lake Pingo a i Lake Kavaculak, ʻike mākou i kekahi kanaka ʻē aʻe. a laila inu i ka ʻaina ahiahi me ka pale ʻana i ka lā wela ma lalo o ka lāʻau i kākoʻo ʻia. Ua ʻai mākou i nā blueberries hihiu. i ka tundra. ʻO kēia mau mea a pau no ka mālama ʻana o ka reindea i kā lākou mau keiki mai ka pā hānau keiki kauwela e like me nā makahiki he mau kaukani. ʻAʻole naʻe e hoʻokuke kekahi i kekahi, ʻo kā lākou hamstrings he ʻoiaʻiʻo castanets kaomi ʻO ke kani, kā lākou mau maiuu i ka pōhaku. Ke neʻe nei kēia mau mea ʻulaʻula ma ko lākou ala kahiko, e like me ka uahi, e hele ana ma kekahi o ko mākou mau ʻāina nui hope loa. ʻO kēia mau paka he mau waiwai koʻikoʻi o kā mākou democracy a ua manaʻo ʻia he mau monuments no nā hanauna e hiki mai ana e ka ʻaha kūkā a me nā pelekikena mua. I kekahi pō hiki ʻole ke hiamoe, ua haʻalele wau i kaʻu keiki e hiamoe ana, a ma waho o ko mākou hale lole, i loko o ka mālamalama palupalu surreal o ka napoʻo ʻana o ke aumoe, ua ʻāwili ke ānuenue me he alahaka hāʻawi ʻia i ke akua ma luna o ka muliwai. , Hiki iaʻu ke noʻonoʻo wale i kaʻu mau keiki kāne ʻelua, a pehea lākou a me kā mākou mau mamo a pau e alo ai i ka maopopo ʻole o ka wela o ka honua. ʻO Jon Waterman kahi mākaʻi mākaʻāina kahiko a me ka mea kākau o ka National Park Atlas of National Geographic. Ua kūpaʻa ka Times e hoʻopuka i nā leka like ʻole i ka mea hoʻoponopono. Makemake mākou e lohe i kou manaʻo no kēia a i ʻole kekahi o kā mākou ʻatikala. Eia kekahi mau ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo. ʻO kā mākou leka uila kēia: letters@nytimes.com.