high quality mvura inoyerera inodzora vharafu

VaWaterman vaimbova muchengeti wepaki yenyika uye munyori weNational Geographic's Atlas of National Parks. Rwizi rwaNoatak rwakafashamira ruri mukati megedhi riri kure reArctic National Park kuchamhembe kwakadziva kumadokero kweAlaska, richisunda chikepe chedu kuzasi uye chichivhuvhuta nemhepo. . Mupata uyu wakapamhama zvekuti unogona kunzwa kuvhiringika kana usina mabhainokura uye kugara uchitarisa mepu. Kuti ndidzivise kurova mahombekombe erwizi, ndaifanira kudongorera kurwizi rwainge rwaita manyama amire nerongo nemaziso akapinza uye kusimudzira chikepe nemaoko maviri. mazuva matatu), nzvimbo yese ingangove yemisasa yakakukurwa nejecha uye yakanyoroveswa. Makore makumi matatu nematanhatu apfuura kubva pandakapedzisira kushanda segwara paRwizi rweNoatak. Gore rino, handina kunakidzwa nendangariro dzinoyangarara munyika yesango yaungafungidzira, asi ndakakatyamadzwa nekushanduka kwemamiriro ekunze kwakachinja zvakanyanya zvandaimboziva. Ndave ndichikwezvwa kurenje kweupenyu hwangu hwese kuti ndimutsiridze pamweya, saka ndakasarudza Noatak seyekupedzisira rwendo rwemurenje kuti ndigoverane nemwanakomana wangu ane makore gumi nemashanu okuzvarwa Alistair neimwe mhuri. Ndiri kuedzawo kutiza rekodhi tembiricha yepamusoro uye sango utsi hwemoto muColorado. Ndinofunga ichi chichava chiitiko chinotonhorera kuFar North. Zvakandishamisa ndezvokuti tembiricha yakanga yava pedyo ne90 degrees Fahrenheit kwemazuva matatu akatevedzana. Zvipembenene izvi zvakakora zvinoshamisa. Takauya pano muna Nyamavhuvhu, tichitarisira kuti chando chinowanzotanga mwedzi iwoyo chichauraya humhutu hunotyisa. Asi kuchinja kwemamiriro ekunze kwatora nguva refu zhizha uye kunonoka kutonhora, saka tinoda mambure emusoro nemishonga inodzinga zvipembenene. Ini naAlistair takagara tichituhwina murwizi kuti titonhore. Ichi chiitiko chandisati ndambofunga panguva dzenzendo dzakawanda kuenda kuchamhembe kunotonhora. Asi mumakore matanhatu apfuura, Alaska yakave nemamiriro ekunze anodziya zvikuru akanyorwa. Kubva parwendo rwangu rwekutanga ndichitevedza zvitubu izvi muna 1982, tembiricha yeArctic yakakwira nemadhigirii akati wandei Fahrenheit. Panguva iyoyo, takapfeka zvechando muvhiki yekutanga yaAugust. Mumakumi emakore kubva ipapo, chikamu ichi cheAlaska chakarohwa nemasaisai asina kujairika ekupisa uye moto wesango. Pakaitika dutu musi wa5 Nyamavhuvhu, tembiricha yakadzika kusvika kumadhigirii anopfuura 50, uye patakabuda muArctic Gate ndokupinda muNoatak National Reserve, mvura yakanaya zvakare.Renje repamutemo rakagovaniswa pakati pemapaki maviri anotambanuka kupfuura mamiriyoni gumi nematatu. maeka, zvichiita kuti ive nzvimbo huru kwazvo isina kuganhurirwa munyika, ichidzivirira rwizi rukuru rusina kuchinjwa. Asi nekupa mhinduro isina kujairika yekuchinja kwemamiriro ekunze, nzvimbo yakadzivirirwa yenzvimbo iyi inoita seisina kunyaradzwa. Chimwe chacho kunyungudutswa kwepermafrost, iyo inofukidza chikamu chimwe muzvina chenyika yekuchamhembe. Ndakatsanangurira Alistair kuti kudziya kwepasi kwabvisa permafrost kubva mufiriji inozivikanwa zvikuru. deposition yakamutsa nekusundidzira nharaunda dzezvirimwa zvekare muvhu, nekuchimbidza kuchiomesa nechando kuti dziite permafrost zvese zvisati zvaora.Kubva pakatanga shanduko yemaindasitiri, permafrost yanga iine kabhoni yakawanda kupfuura yaburitswa nevanhu. Ikozvino, zvaita sepinachi yakaomeswa nechando yakaiswa pakaunda yekubikira.Permafrost yatanga kuora uye kubudisa kabhoni nemethane mumhepo-zvichiwedzera kumagasi egreenhouse anogadzirwa nevanhu akonzera kudziya kwepasirese. Munguva yekufamba tundra muma1980, tsoka dzangu dzakaramba dzakaoma zvikuru; panguva ino, takaramba tichinyorovesa bhutsu dzedu uye tichifamba nemutundra yakanyoroveswa nemisodzi yepermafrost.Gomo riri kumusoro harina sinou.Sinou pagedhi reNorth Pole yakapotsa yanyangarika gore rose.Maererano neongororo, ye34 square mamaira echando chena akaonekwa muna 1985, 4 chete masikweya mamaira akasara pakasvika 2017. PaNoatak, sezvo matombo akadonha uye jecha richidururwa murwizi, taifanira kutyaira raft dzedu kumahombekombe akanyungudutswa.Sefa dzedu dzemvura yekunwa dzinodzokororwa. yakavharwa nemashanga ekudurura. Ongororo yenguva pfupi yapfuura yenzizi diki nehova munzvimbo iyi yakaratidza kuti kunyunguduka kwepermafrost kuri kutonhodza mvura, izvo zvinonzi nenyanzvi dzezvinhu zvipenyu zvinogona kukanganisa kubereka kwesalmon. Pakubhururuka mukati, takaonawo gomba rinonzi thermokarst richimhanyira muvhu rakasvibira tundra.Idzo dzinokonzerwa nekunyunguduka kwechando chepamusoro pemvura inonyunguduka.Madhamu akazarawo kubva mubheseni, nekuti madziro etundra akatenderedza akanyunguduka semafuta. Sezvo mamiriro ekunze aiwedzera kuvanakira, makwenzi ane miti aiendawo kuchamhembe munzvimbo dzine huswa hushoma. Makwenzi acho anowedzera kupisa kwezuva nemuchando uye pasi kusvika kune permafrost. Muna 1982, ndakawana dendere raigara mhuri yemhumhi. kumahombekombe erwizi rweNoatak, kwakakomberedzwa nemiti yebirch uye uswa hunosvika mumabvi. Nhasi, mahombekombe erwizi mazhinji akafukidzwa nemikonachando. Nokuti zvinomera zvinopa simba rakawanda uye nzvimbo yekugara kwemhuka dzesango, iyi "Arctic greening" iri kushandura ecosystem yose.Kukwezvwa nemakwenzi aya ane miti, moose, beaver uye mhashu dzechando dzava kutamira kuchamhembe uye kukonzera dzimwe shanduko.Shrubs zvakare inoderedza lichen chifukidziro, chiri chikafu chinokosha chemhara dzinopfuura 250 000 dzinofamba munharaunda yacho, dzimwe dzacho dzinofamba mamaira 2 700 kuenda nokubva kunzvimbo inoberekerwa. Kunyange zvazvo takaona kuchinja kwose, tichiri kudhakwa murenje riri kure kudaro uye risina kufamba zvokuti mukati merwendo rwemakiromita 90, kwemazuva matanhatu kubva kuLake Pingo kuenda kuLake Kavaculak, takangoona Mumwe munhu. Takabata trout murwizi, uye takabva tanwa pakudya kwemanheru tichinzvenga zuva rinopisa pasi pechitsiko chakatsigirwa.Takakorokoza mablueberries emusango.Mushure mekupedza awa imwe chete mumhepo yaityaira honye mujinga megomo, takaona bere rinotyisa nevana varo, tisingazivi kuti tiripo, tichitamba. mu tundra. Zvose izvi imhaka yokuti mufudzi wemhembwe anofudza vana vawo kubva mudanga rokuberekera mhuru dzechirimo sezviuru zvemakore. Hatina kuona vanhu vakawanda, asi taiziva kuti vakanga varipo, pane imwe nzvimbo, vachimhanya vari mumapoka, masendimita mashoma kubva kure. asi vasingambosundane, tsinga dzadzo dzakaita semakanda echokwadi dzvanya Inzwi, mahwanda adzo akarovera padombo. Zvisikwa zvitete izvi zvinokukurwa munzira dzazvo dzekare, seutsi, zvichipfuura nepakati peimwe renje redu rekupedzisira. Aya mapaki pfuma inokosha yedemokrasi yedu uye anoonekwa sezviyeuchidzo kune zvizvarwa zvinotevera neCongress uye vatungamiri vekare.Iye zvino vanoratidza ramangwana rekuchinja kwemamiriro ekunze, iyo yakarova Arctic nenzira isina kumboonekwa kare munyika ine mwero. Humwe usiku ndisingakwanisi kurara, ndakaverevedza kubva pamwanakomana wangu uyo ​​akanga achikotsira, ndokubuda mutende redu, ndokupinda muchiedza chakapfava chepakati pousiku pakunyura kwezuva, murarabungu wakakombamira sezambuko rakapiwa namwari pamusoro porwizi. , ndinogona kungofunga nezvevanakomana vangu vaviri, uye kuti ivo nevazukuru vedu vose vachatarisana sei nokusava nechokwadi kwokupisa kukuru kwepasi. Jon Waterman aimbova muchengeti wepaki yenyika uye munyori weNational Park Atlas yeNational Geographic. The Times yakazvipira kubudisa mavara akasiyana-siyana kumupepeti.Tinoda kunzwa pfungwa dzako pane izvi kana chimwe chezvinyorwa zvedu.Heano mamwe mazano.Iyi ndiyo email yedu: letters@nytimes.com.