The temperature and pressure relief valve is an extremely important component that helps to ensure the safe operation of your water heater.
Question: My water heater is leaking from some type of brass valve on the side of the tank near the top. There is a pipe coming out of the valve at a right angle, which looks like it goes through the wall. How can I fix the leak of this work?
Answer: You mean the temperature and pressure safety valve (T&P or pop-up valve). This is an extremely important component that helps ensure the safe operation of your water heater. It is just a valve that allows excess pressure to be discharged from the water tank of the water heater.
This valve helps prevent the water tank of the water heater from exploding. If the temperature in the water tank exceeds 210 degrees or the pressure in the water tank exceeds 150 psi, it will open. The opening of the valve allows cold water to enter the water tank to prevent the possibility of boiling and explosion.
Although you don’t often hear about water heater explosions, it does happen. There is a video showing the force that an explosion tank can exert (check it out on waterheaterblast.com), and it was tested with only a 12-gallon electric water heater, and the safety valve was plugged to maintain the pressure, simulating what if the pressure relief valve fails to operate , It will happen.
The tester dug a hole in the ground as deep as the water heater. The thermostat stayed on until the water tank exploded. The force of the explosion pushed the water heater into the air, stayed in the air for more than 9 seconds, and then landed about 400 feet away. A small side note: the speed is measured at 900 feet per second.
Imagine the damage that a projectile of this size and weight can cause to the house and its occupants. Thank goodness there is a pressure relief valve.
Regular testing of the valve is very important, but usually it will not be completely sealed after testing. Testing the safety valve involves lifting a metal piece and letting water pass through the drain.
After releasing the tag, the valve should stop. If not, you can switch tabs again or try to tap the top of the valve lightly with a hammer. If the valve does not close, you should replace it.
If your valve leaks from the seat of the water heater (where the valve is screwed into the tank), you can try to remove the valve and wrap some Teflon tape or paste around the threads, and then reinstall the valve. It may be that the seat is corroded to the point where the water heater must be replaced.
The pressure relief valve will have a drain to the outside. The pipe will be connected to the valve through some type of union or flexible pipe. These will be unscrewed from the valve. Use a pipe wrench to unscrew the safety valve from the fuel tank.
You can buy a new valve, wrap it with three turns of Teflon tape, and screw the valve back. Let it fit snugly, and then finish it so that the opening of the valve points down or to the side.
Here is a caveat: the pressure relief drain pipe must be gravity fed, so this means that there will be no rise in the pipe. From the point where the valve leaves the tank, the drain pipe must be level or downhill. This way the water will not be pinched by the pipe and will slow down the discharge of pressure.
When that valve is open, you don’t want anything to obstruct the pipeline. Screw the drain pipe extension back to the valve.
If the drain of your safety valve enters the wall at a position higher than the valve itself, you will have to open the wall and lower the drain below the valve height. You will need various accessories, and then you will need to repair the walls.
Mike Klimek is a licensed contractor and owner of Las Vegas Handyman. Questions can be emailed to handymanoflasvegas@msn.com. Or, mail it to 4710 W. Dewey Drive, No. 100, Las Vegas, NV 89118. His website is www.handymanoflasvegas.com.
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Post time: Dec-01-2021
