When the old metal sea valve on Maximus was severely corroded, Ali Wood turned to Navigators Marine and TruDesign for help to install new composite
Our PBO project boat Maximus had four sea valve fittings that needed to be replaced – three ball valves (1 x 1½in and 2 x ¾in) on the front peak and a gate valve under the galley sink.All three valves (sink drain, head inlet and drain), skin fittings and hose tail are in poor condition.
Ben Sutcliffe-Davies suggested replacing the entire assembly in his marine survey of the Maxi 84.
While the 43 year old boat is not original, the problem was that the replacement galvanized brass sea valve used the original skin fittings, which had a bronze tapered tail and risked thread incompatibility.
In the kitchen, the sluice or “sluice” valve looks bronze, which is much better, but it’s totally caught.None of us can turn the handle, there is corrosion on the casting.
Gate valves cannot be repaired and you cannot tell if they are open or closed just by looking at them.Even though the handle is on the old one, it’s possible that the threads may have peeled off and the handle isn’t actually closing the valve
I’m absolutely intrigued by SeaSeal’s smart new sea valves – they are designed to extend the life of the vessel.It is true that the engine sail drives the sea valve a bit stiff, so that might be an option if I decide to replace it at a later date.
Budget is a limiting factor, however, and TruDesign’s composite sea valve is less than one-third the price of SeaSeal’s forged DZR (£40 for ¾in vs. £158 for 158).
Composite sea valves look very smart, feel very strong (albeit bulkier than metal sea valves) and durable, while being easy to maneuver back and forth.I also like the idea of not having to do any maintenance other than exercising them from time to time.
TruDesign seacocks come with an optional load-bearing collar designed to fit between the skin fittings and the valve, ideal for use in areas such as lockers where it can be struck by unsafe objects in rough seas .
On the Maximus, the seabirds are tucked away, which isn’t strictly necessary since they’re not exposed, but I opted for collars anyway so we can show how they’re mounted.
Where possible I’d be advised to choose straight hoses as it is much easier to clear the blockage from one than the 90° one.However, it also depends on the available space.If you are not sure, the boatman should be able to measure it for you.Here’s what we ordered:
I got in touch with Peter Draper of Navigators Marine, Chichester, a certified TruDesign Installer.He kindly agreed to come down to Maximus to show how to mount the puffin.
We were all ready to go – James Turner of TruDesign was staying overnight from Devon – just the day before Peter asked me if I had removed the outlet and inlet pipes from the head and kitchen.NO, I have not!I thought he would do it during the installation, but he told me that health and safety legislation meant removing the polluted grey and black drain was not something he could enforce.
“Old head pipes are contaminated with human waste, usually very old putrid smelly waste and anything that has been flushed down the toilet over the years.”
Ideally, demolition and disposal should be done by a certified specialist firm, but even a boat the size of the Maximus can cost upwards of £2,000, Peter told me.
So in practice most shipowners dismantle the old pipes themselves, or see if their yards are ready to do so, he said.
I couldn’t get on the boat myself – it was a 3+ hour round trip school run – I called Dale Quay Shipyard and begged them (not the first time) to step in at the last minute and they did.Thank you, Dale Pier!
Lesson 1 – Always ask the contractor, “Is there anything else you need me to do?” before booking work.I didn’t consider the complications of removing the hose.
The skin fittings and sea valve installation was a two-day job, as the skin fittings needed to be installed the day before the sea valve to allow time for the sealant to dry.For sealants, TruDesign recommends Sikaflex 291i or 3M 5200.
Peter starts by cutting out old accessories, using the multitool to tackle awkward corners.After removing the nut, the skin fitting can be pushed out from the inside.It’s interesting to see how corroded the components are.
Peter showed me the gate valve, it should be an original fitting from ’43.He explained that the pink color is evidence of zinc disappearing from the alloy, suggesting that the old gate valve was not bronze as originally imagined, but brass, and now the zinc has leached out – mostly copper!It was a good job and it was replaced as it could break down at any time.
Peter cleaned the holes thoroughly to give the sealant the best chance of adhering to the laminate.He then sanded the interior, exterior and entire area of the laminate and applied a good sealer.
Using the installation tool, Peter places the fitting into the hole and removes the tool.Instead of wiping off the excess sealant, he let it cure, ready to cut in the morning.
It is important that there is sealant between the hull and the washer and between the washer and the nut, so to ensure this the nut is just hand tightened so it doesn’t squeeze out all the sealant and let the sealant do its job.
He used the multitool again, this time to cut off the excess length of the skin fitting; since you never know how many threads will be left in the hull when dry fitting, it’s best to wait until the sealant has cured before doing this work.
Next up are the load-bearing collars and sea valves.Although the TruDesign seacocks are thicker than the metal previously used, the enclosure fittings are the same size as it is a BSP standard.They are available in ¾in, 1in or 1½in diameter.
The valve on the head is easy to access, but sure to be a hassle for Peter trying to replace the old gate valve in the kitchen, which sits under a small drawer and only moves a few inches.
“Everyone knows that shipbuilders make it difficult for future owners to build ships,” James said.”It’s never been more true for the valve in this locker!”
Still, he did it.He used sealant on all the joints, but be careful not to get the sealant into the center of the valve so it doesn’t clog smooth operation.
Finally he installed the hose tail and we were done.What a rich day it is.I had the pleasure of witnessing the puffins coming in and out and fully understand why they needed to be replaced.
Feeling rather helpless about the installation itself, I tried to help by getting him a wrench.I was looking for tools and unable to get into the driver’s seat when the wind shut the van’s door, and I fumbled for a few minutes in the dark, sweating, trying to think what the fictional hero Jack Ritchie would do.
Just as I found the door to release, Peter and James came to me and realized that the knocking was not just “ordinary dock noise”.
Then we need to wait 24 hours – again to allow the sealant to fully cure – before changing the hose.
Before we launch, we’ll be sure to attach some tapered corks with lanyards to plug the holes in case the skin fit fails.
TruDesign ball valve sea valve in situ.You can see the white “ball” that stops the water from entering when the sea valve is closed
It was fun to open and close the ball valves and see for yourself how they work without the hoses attached.When you see daylight streaming in from the bottom of the boat, you realize how important these gadgets are, and why it’s important to keep them looking good!
James Turner、Dell Quay Marine、TruDesign、RYA 和 Navigators Marine，info@navigatorsmarine.co.uk
This feature appeared in Practical Boat Owners Magazine.For more articles like this, including DIY, money saving advice, great boat projects, expert tips and ways to improve your boat’s performance, subscribe to the UK’s best-selling boating magazine.
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Post time: May-17-2022
