By the late 1970s, Corvette production was developing at an unprecedented rate. As Chevrolet General Manager Robert Lund said in March 1977: “The St. Louis plant has to work two 9-hour shifts a day, and overtime on two Saturdays a month to meet sales demand. Current demand This is an increase of more than 29% over last year.” No one realized that after Pace Car and Silver Anniversary Editions became popular in 1978, Corvette was about to set another production record, that is, more than 50,000 Corvettes were produced in the 1979 model year. . At the same time, Corvette’s car sales set a new record for the first time in the history of the car, that is, the basic sales price exceeded $10,000.
The price increase for the 1979 model is reasonable, especially considering the Corvette has been rapidly approaching this cost threshold over the past few years.
As before, Chevrolet engineers continue to add more previously optional features available to consumers in the standard base package.
In 1978, the tilting telescopic steering column, air-conditioning and power windows were all optional. Nearly 80% of the cars sold that year included all three options, which together cost consumers $910.00. The base price is US$9,351.89. In early 1979, although these items were still optional for a period of time (total cost now is $966.00), these three optional devices have become standard parts of the car.
On May 7, 1979, they formally became part of the standard equipment group, and the base price of Corvette climbed to $10,220.23. By the end of production, due to other options (plus a strong inflation spiral in the price of some standard equipment), the basic price of the car will soar above $12,000.00.
Although the Corvette design of the Defender introduced in 1978 continued into the 1979 model year, some (mostly subtle) improvements were made to the overall appearance of the car. For example, the “25th Anniversary” logo was replaced by the more traditional “Cross Logo”, which has been the main emblem of the Chevrolet Corvette for more than 25 years.
In addition, the chrome trim strips covering the windows and roof panels after 1978 were replaced with black trim strips. Tungsten halogen headlights were gradually put into production in the early stages of the model year to improve visibility. The tungsten halogen headlight beam only replaces the high beam unit. Finally, some parts of the 1978 Pace Car Package became options for the 1979 model year.
Colored roof panels (RPO CC1) and front and rear spoilers (RPO D80) are available for consumers. The spoiler is functional, reducing drag by about 15% and improving fuel economy by about half a mile per gallon.
Nevertheless, in 1979, the sales of Corvettes with this option only accounted for less than 13% of the total sales that year.
Moving inward, the inside is slightly more refined than the outside. The biggest and most significant change is the new “high-back” seat style previously introduced on Pace Car Replicas in 1978. These same seats are now standard equipment for the 1979 model year. The seat uses a lot of plastic in its frame structure, which reduces the total weight of each seat by about twelve pounds.
Did you know: The 1979 Corvette was the first model year to provide AM/FM radio as standard equipment. Before 1979, if the owners of Corvette wanted to include a radio, they ordered a radio, but they had to pay an additional fee for the base price.
At the same time, the new seat provides better side support for the occupants. They also have foldable seat backs (higher than most traditional seats) to make the rear storage area easier to access.
The introduction of inertia can limit the seat back during sudden deceleration, eliminating the need for manual locking on these new folding seats. Despite this, the new seat does not provide a reclining seat back, and most cars can even use this seat on the cheapest Japanese car produced that year.
Although the seat has received a lot of attention, the other interior trim also needs some other minor changes. The driver and passenger seat tracks have been redesigned to provide greater forward travel distance.
The ignition cylinder lock received an additional protective cover to reinforce it, making it more difficult to access in the event of a car theft. The previously optional AM-FM radio became standard equipment, and the illuminated sun visor-mirror combination for passenger sun visors became an option for the Corvette in 1979. Some later production models of 1979 were equipped with 85 mph (maximum) speedometer, which will be officially introduced as standard equipment in the 1980 Corvette. This is the result of an authorization initiated by the federal government in September 1979, and the authorization will last until March 1982.
Mechanically, due to the new “open” muffler design, both the basic L48 and optional L82 engines have increased by 5 horsepower. In addition, the low limit introduced on the L82 engine has been added to the L48 engine, and the dual snorkel air intake has been added to the basic engine. This adds an additional 5 horsepower to the basic engine. The total output of the L48 is 195hp, and the total output of the L48 is 225hp. Equipped with L82 engine.
In other parts of the car, the speed of the shock absorber has been standardized, so the speed of the shock absorber is the same regardless of the type of gearbox installed (manual or automatic). In cars equipped with automatic transmissions, the final drive ratio was reduced from 3.08:1 to 3.55:1. The fueling pipe has been redesigned to make it more difficult for consumers to modify leaded fuel.
Chevrolet produced a total of 53,807 Corvettes in 1979, setting the record for the most Corvettes manufactured in a single year in the car’s 26-year history (this record has been maintained to this day!)
This is the height that Corvette accepts. Ironically, General Motors was once convinced that C3 models would never sell half. Instead, although more and more competitors are competing for the attention of consumers, the popularity of the car is stronger than ever. It has proven to be indispensable for the sweetheart of high-margin private cars and showrooms.
Car critics and critics are still skeptical about the value of the car, because its price has been steadily rising, and there are such things as Mazda RX-7 (base price starting at only $6,395), Datsun 280ZX ($9,899.00), and even Relatively expensive sports cars like 1979. Porsche 924 ($12,025.00).
Nonetheless, no one can persuade that the Corvette is still an impressive straight-line competitor in European and Asian imports. The test of “Road and Track Magazine” allowed a 1979 Corvette with an L82 engine to drive 0-60 times and only recorded a speed of 6.6 seconds; standing for a quarter of a mile at 95 mph 15.3 seconds, the top speed is 127 mph.
Despite this, most critics think that C3 is “toothing” again, and the reputation of having the Corvette continues to prevail among consumers. However, serious car enthusiasts begin to question how long it will take before Chevrolet launches the Corvette. time? The “next generation” of the beloved sports car.
Although it will take five and a half years for the actual arrival of the C4, this speculation will continue, although the engineers behind Corvette are still standing idly by. As will be seen in the next few years, the “shark” generation is beginning to come to an end.
All welded, full-length, stepped construction frames with five (5) beams. Side rail and middle cross beam box part; front cross beam box beam part. Eight (8) valve body mounting points.
Independent SLA type coil spring, shock absorber with center installation, spherical joint knuckle pivot.
The last six digits of the Corvette coupe start from 400,001 and go to 453807, accounting for the total of 53,807 Corvette coupes built in 1979. 5,227 Corvettes were sold in Canada. Each vehicle identification number (VIN) is unique to a single car.
For all 1979 frigates, the location of the vehicle identification number (VIN) is printed on the plate attached to the hinge post of the left front body.
Brand: CHEVROLET Model: CORVETTE Model Year: 1979 Manufacturer: CARDONE INDUSTRIES, INC. Manufacturer report date: May 7, 2003 NHTSA campaign ID number: 03E032000 NHTSA action number: N/A component: service brake, air: DISC: CALIPER Number of possible affected units: 15899
Remanufactured brake caliper, part number. 18-7019, 18-7020, 16-7019 and 16-7020 were manufactured from February 1, 2002 to April 25, 2003, and Chevrolet Corvette was used from 1965 to 1982. Use incorrectly manufactured piston seals to manufacture the main brake caliper. These seals are designed to prevent fluid leakage between the caliper housing and the piston. These brake calipers can only be used on Chevrolet Corvette vehicles from 1965 to 1982. This recall does not involve General Motors or any of its products.
Under these conditions, the vehicle operator may not be able to stop, which may cause the vehicle to crash.
CARDONE will notify its customers and will repurchase all unsold inventory and return the full amount to customers. It is expected that the owner will be notified in May 2003. The owner should send his vehicle to the authorized dealer on the agreed service date, and cannot contact CARDONE by calling 215-912-3000 within a reasonable time.
In addition, customers can also dial 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236) to contact the automatic safety hotline of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.
Brand: CHEVROLET Model: CORVETTE Model Year: 1979 Manufacturer: HONEYWELL INTERNATIONAL, INC. Manufacturer’s Report Date: October 19, 2007 NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 07E088000 NHTSA Action Number: N/A Components: Potential Potential Impact of Equipment Number: 121,680
Certain Honeywell racing brand HP4 and HP8 oil filters produced from May 25, 2006 to September 14, 2007 are sold as replacement equipment for the aforementioned cars. The affected filters are sequentially marked with the date code A61451 by A72571. The date code and part number are displayed on the filter housing. The recall does not affect HP4 and HP8 oil filters that are not date coded within this range. Under high temperature and high pressure, the gasket of the oil filter becomes more reliable.
Honeywell will replace the affected oil filter free of charge. The recall began in November 2007. Owners can call FRAM customer service free of charge at 1-800-890-2075.
Customers can call 1-888-327-4236 to contact the vehicle safety hotline of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); or go to HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
In addition to the items listed above, it is also recommended to check the following items every 300 miles or 2 weeks (whichever comes first):
Remove the air filter and fully open the throttle valve and throttle valve. Connect the starter remote control cable and firmly insert the pressure gauge into the spark plug port. Whenever the engine is remotely shaken on the starter through a jumper cable or other means, the main lead of the distributor must be disconnected from the negative pole on the coil, and the ignition switch must be in the “ON” position. Otherwise, the grounding circuit of the ignition switch will be damaged.
Start the engine with at least four compression strokes to get the highest possible reading. Check and record the compression of each cylinder. If the reading of one or more cylinders is low or uneven, inject a tablespoon of oil (through the spark plug port.) on the top of the piston in the low reading cylinder and shake the engine several times, then recheck the compression ratio. If compression occurs but does not necessarily reach normal pressure, wear a ring. If the compression does not improve, the valve will burn, stick or seal incorrectly. If two adjacent cylinders show low compression, the cylinder head gasket between the cylinders may be leaking. This defect may result in engine coolant and/or oil in the cylinder.
Unless otherwise stated, the described adjustments apply to all carburetors used. All adjustments are made when the engine is at normal operating temperature.
Refer to the emission label on the vehicle. Set the engine to adjust. Set the ignition timing. For the carburetor without solenoid valve and the air conditioner is turned off, please turn the idle screw to set the curb idle speed to the specification. For the carburetor with solenoid valve, please energize the solenoid valve, disconnect the air conditioner at the compressor, turn on the air conditioner, set A/T in the driver, set M/T in the neutral position, and set the spiral Adjust the tube screw to the specified RPM speed.
The spare mixing screws are pre-set and capped at the factory. During normal engine maintenance, do not remove the cover. Only in the case of overhaul of the carburetor, replacement of the throttle body, or high-idling CO level depending on the inspection, the idle speed mixture should be adjusted.
Except for the following, all adjustments are the same as above: on models equipped with an idle stop solenoid valve, adjust the idle stop solenoid valve screw to 1000 rpm, and then adjust the idle speed mixture adjusting screw to the specified rpm. Screw in the idling mixing screw (lean mixture) until the engine speed is reduced by 20 rpm, then turn it 1/4 turn. Disconnect the wire on the idle stop solenoid valve (throttle level will abut the conventional stop screw.) Adjust the stop screw for 500 rpm idle speed. Do not change the setting of the stop screw of the idle stop solenoid valve or the idle speed mixing screw.
Use throttle gauge J-26701. Rotate the tool’s ruler until the pointer is opposite to zero. When the throttle valve is fully closed, place the magnet vertically on the top of the throttle valve. Rotate the bubble until it is centered. Rotate the scale to specify the degree in the opposite pointer. Place the cam follower on the second step of the cam, next to the high step. Push the choke coil rod up to close the choke. To make adjustments, bend the tangs on the quick idle cam until the bubble is centered. Remove the gauge.
After adjusting the slow idle speed correctly, fully open the throttle valve and ensure that the fast idle cam follower deviates from the cam step. With the shock absorber fully compressed, adjust the gap between the shock absorber plunger and the throttle lever to 1/16 inch.
Remove the air filter and check whether the throttle valve and piston rod are more free. Disconnect the throttle lever on the throttle lever. Keep the throttle valve closed and adjust the position of the lever so that it contacts the stopper to check the throttle valve adjustment. If necessary, the length of the rod can be adjusted by offsetting the bending of the rod. The bending must allow the rod to enter the throttle rod hole freely and squarely. Connect the rod at the throttle valve rod and install the air filter.
The AIR system is used to burn the unburned part of the exhaust gas to reduce its hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide content. This system forces compressed air into the exhaust manifold where it is mixed with hot exhaust gas. The hot exhaust gas contains unburned particles, which will complete combustion when air is added.
The system includes: air pump, diverter valve, one-way valve, AIR pipe assembly and connecting hoses and accessories. The carburetor and distributor of the AIR engine should be used with the system and should not be replaced with components used with engines that do not have the system.
The air pump is a two-blade pump that compresses fresh filtered air and injects it into the exhaust manifold. The pump includes a casing, a centrifugal filter, a set of blades rotating around the center line of the pump casing hole, a rotor and a seal of the blades. First remove the drive belt and pump pulley, then replace the centrifugal filter. Then use pliers to pull out the filter. Care should be taken to prevent debris from entering the air inlet. Note: The new filter may scream when it is first put into operation. In addition, care should be taken when working on the compressor, as the aluminum used is very soft and thin. When the air flow rate from the air pump increases as the engine speed increases, the operation of the air pump is satisfactory.
The air hose can only be replaced with a hose specially designed for the AIR system, because any other type of hose cannot withstand high temperatures.
Start the engine, and then check the ignition dwell time. When the engine is idling, raise the adjusting screw window, and then insert the Allen key into the hole of the adjusting screw. Turn the adjustment screw as needed until a dwell reading of thirty degrees is obtained. Two degrees of wear are allowed. Close the access cover completely to prevent dust from entering the dispenser. If there is no pressure holding gauge, turn the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine starts to stop, and then turn the screw half a turn in the opposite direction to complete the adjustment.
Slowly accelerate the engine to 1500 rpm and pay attention to the holding pressure reading. Return the engine to idle speed and record the holding pressure reading. If the dwell change exceeds the specification, please check whether the distributor shaft is worn, whether the distributor shaft bushing is worn or the circuit breaker plate is loose.
Remove the dispenser cover, clean the cover and check for cracks, carbon traces and burnt terminals. If necessary, close the lid. Clean the rotor and check for damage or deterioration. Replace the rotor if necessary. Replace fragile, oily or damaged spark plug wires. Install all wires to the correct spark plugs. The correct placement of the spark plug wire in the bracket is important to prevent cross ignition. Tighten all connections to the ignition system. Replace or repair any frayed, loose or damaged wires.
Disconnect the dispenser spark advance hose and block the vacuum source opening. Start the engine and run at idle speed. Aim the timing light at the “Timing” tab. Marks on the tabs are in increments of two degrees (the “A” side of “Q” has the largest number of marks). “O” is marked as TDC (top dead center), and the BTDC setting is on the “A” (leading) side of “O”.
Adjust the time by loosening the dispenser clamp and rotating the dispenser body as needed, then tighten the clamp and recheck the time. Stop the engine and remove the timing lamp, and then reconnect the ignition advance hose.
Check each plug separately for severely worn electrodes, glazed surfaces, broken or blistered porcelain, and replace the plugs if necessary. Use abrasive cleaners such as sandblasting to thoroughly clean repairable spark plugs. File the center electrode flat. Check the manufacturing and heating range of each spark plug. All plugs must have the same brand and number. Use a round feeler gauge to adjust the spark plug gap to 0.035 inches. If so, use a spark plug tester to test the spark plug. Before installing the spark plug, check the thread of the spark plug hole and clean it. Install the spark plug with a new washer and tighten it to the specified torque. Connect the spark plug wiring.
There are no moving parts in the ignition pulse amplifier, and the distributor shaft and bushing are permanently lubricated, so there is no need for regular maintenance of the electromagnetic pulse ignition system.
Check the dispenser centrifugal propulsion mechanism by rotating the dispenser rotor as far clockwise as possible and then loosening the rotor to see if the spring returns it to its hysteresis position. If the rotor is not easy to return, the distributor must be disassembled and the cause of the failure must be corrected.
Rotate the movable circuit breaker plate counterclockwise to check if the vacuum spark controller can operate freely to see if the spring returns to its hysteresis position. Any rigidity in the operation of the spark controller will affect the ignition timing. Correct any interference or constraints indicated.
Check the distributor point and clean or replace if necessary. Contacts that are generally gray and have only slight roughness or pitting do not need to be replaced. Dirty spots should be cleaned using clean spot files. Use only a few clean, detailed contact files. The file should not be used on other metals, nor should it be greasy or dirty. Do not use emery cloth or sandpaper to clean the contact points, as the particles will bury and cause arcs and rapid burning points. Do not try to remove all roughness, and do not try to smooth the tip surface. Only scale or dirt is removed. Clean the cam lobe with detergent and rotate the end of the cam lubricator oil core (or 180 degrees as appropriate). Replace burned or severely pitted spots.
If you encounter premature combustion or severe pits, you should check the ignition system and engine to determine the cause of the failure in order to eliminate the failure. Unless the situation that caused spot burning or pitting is corrected, the new spot will not be able to provide better service than the old spot.
Check the point alignment, and then adjust the dispenser contact point gap to .019″ (new point) or .016″ (old point). During the adjustment, the friction block of the circuit breaker arm must be on the convex corner. If the contact point is already in use, the contact point should be cleaned with a contact point file before using the feeler gauge for adjustment.
Check the spring tension (contact pressure) of the distributor point with the spring gauge hooked on the breaker lever, and apply a 90 degree tension to the breaker lever. These points should be closed (the cam follower is between the lobes), and readings are taken when the points are separated. The spring tension should be 19-23 ounces. If it is not within the limit, replace it. Excessive pressure causes excessive wear on the pressure tip, cam and rubber block. Weak point pressure can cause bouncing or chattering, which can lead to arcing and burning of the point, and cause high-speed ignition errors.
The top of the battery should be kept clean and the battery holder should be tightened properly. Special attention should be paid to ensure that the top of the battery is clean and free of acid film and dirt. When cleaning the battery, first wash it with dilute ammonia or soda water to neutralize any acid present, and then rinse with clean water. Keep the vent plug tightly so that the neutralizing solution does not enter the battery. The compression bolts should be tight enough to prevent the batter from shaking in its holder, but they should be tightened to the extent that the battery box is placed under severe tension.
To ensure good contact, the battery cable should be tightly fixed on the battery terminal. Oil battery terminal felt washer. If the battery terminal or cable terminal is corroded, the cable should be cleaned with a soda solution and a steel wire brush respectively. After cleaning and before installing the clamps, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the posts and cable clamps to help slow down corrosion. If the battery is still under-charged, please check whether the fan belt is loose or defective, whether the alternator is defective, whether the resistance in the charging circuit is high, whether the regulator contacts are oxidized or whether the voltage setting is low. If the battery uses too much water, the voltage output is too high.
Check if the hose is damaged or blocked. Check all hose connections. On engines with enclosed air filters, check the crankcase ventilation filter and replace if necessary. On engines with open air filters, remove the flame arrestor and wash it with a solvent, then dry it with compressed air.
Check the brake fluid regularly, because the brake lining wears, the fluid level will drop rapidly. Only the recommended liquid should be replenished. Check whether the disc brake assembly is wet. Indicates cylinder leakage. Disc brakes do not need to be adjusted regularly. They are self-adjusting. When the friction material drops to 1/16 inch, the pad should be replaced. This is when the groove in the center of the pad disappears. Check by removing the wheel and directly checking the caliper.
Raise the vehicle and remove the rear wheels. Loosen the equalizer stop nut until the lever is loose and the cable moves freely to the “closed” position. Rotate the disc until the adjustment screw can be seen through the hole on the disc. Insert the screwdriver and move the screwdriver handle upward to tighten the adjusting screw. Adjust the sides. Tighten it until the disc does not move, then return it to 6 to 8 slots. Install the wheel and place the brake handle in the applied position-13 notches. Tighten the stop nut until you need to pull 80 pounds to pull the handle into the 14th notch. Tighten the stop nut to 70 inches. With the handbrake off, there should be no dragons on the rear wheels.
Check the effect of the clutch by stepping on the pedal 1/2 inch from the floor and moving back and forth between the shift levers several times with the engine running. If the shift is not smooth, adjust the clutch. Approximately free movement when the pedal is released. 1-1/4″ to 2″ and 2″ to 2-1/2″ are used for heavy duty.
At the clutch lever near the firewall, remove the clutch return spring. To reduce the free play of the clutch pedal, remove the clutch pedal return spring and loosen the lower nut on the clutch pedal lever; play the role of the upper nut. Continue until the proper clearance is obtained, then firmly tighten the top nut and replace the spring. In order to increase the working nut for pedal playing, the reverse order is required.
Disconnect the clutch return spring on the cross shaft. Push the clutch lever until the pedal rests on the rubber stop under the dashboard. Loosen the lock nuts of the two shafts, and then push in the shafts until the stop bearing just touches the pressure plate spring. Tighten the top locknut toward the rotary joint until the distance between it and the rotary joint is 0.4 inches. Tighten the bottom locknut of the rotating device. The free travel of the pedal should not be 1-1/2 inches.
Disconnect the control link on the throttle lever of the carburetor. Keep the carburetor throttle lever in the wide position. Pull the control link to the fully open position. (On vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions, pull the pawl.) Adjust the control link to freely enter the hole of the carburetor throttle lever. Connect the control link to the throttle lever.
Remove the air filter and disconnect the accelerator linkage on the carburetor. Disconnect the throttle to return oil and change oil. Return Spring. Pull the upper lever forward until the gearbox passes the pawl. Fully open the carburetor, at this time the ball head bolt must touch the groove end of the upper rod. If necessary, adjust the rotation of the rod end.
Release the spring lock and place the carburetor in the open throttle position. Push down on the snap lock until its top is flush with the rest of the cable.
Pull the brake switch driver back until the holes in the switch body align with the holes in the driver. Insert a 3/16-inch pin through the hole to a depth of 1/8-inch, and then loosen the mounting bolt. Fully open the throttle, and then move the switch forward until the lever touches the accelerator lever. Tighten the mounting bolts and remove the pins.
Valve failure may cause rough engine idling. With the engine idling, pinch the vacuum hose to the carburetor for inspection. If the idling becomes stable, the valve should be removed for cleaning or replacement, if any damage is found.
The car should stand on the ground and check the oil level with a dipstick. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it with a clean cloth, replace it and pull it out again. The oil mark at the bottom of the dipstick will indicate the oil level. If necessary, refuel through the filler cap. Do not let the oil level drop to the point where the dipstick does not show at all.
If in doubt, it is best to add more oil. Do not mix oils of different brands, otherwise the additives may be incompatible.
Place the oil pan under the drain plug of the oil pan, and then remove the plug. Make sure the capacity of the pot is large enough to hold the oil. Move the pot under the filter and turn it counterclockwise to remove it. Clean the gasket surface of the cylinder block. Coat the gasket of the new filter with engine oil. Thread the filter into the adapter. Tighten firmly by hand. Do not over tighten the filter. Remove the drip pan.
Remove the drain pan. Check the gasket of the drain plug of the oil pan. If it is cracked, cracked or deformed, replace it. Install and tighten the drain plug. Fill the crankcase to the required level with the recommended oil. Run the engine at a fast idle speed and check for oil leaks. Crankcase capacity: 327 and 350 engines-4 quarts, 427 & 454 engines-5 quarts. When replacing the oil filter, add another quart.
Check engine idle speed, neutral gearbox and engine oil level at normal operating temperature. Add liquid as needed to reach the level. Do not overfill.
Every 12,000 miles or earlier (depending on the service), remove the oil from the oil tank and add new oil. Operate the gearbox and check the fluid level. The oil pan filter of the Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission should be replaced every 24,000 miles. Supplementary capacity: Powerglide – 2 quarts, Turbo Hydra-Matic – 7-1 / 2 quarts.
Lift the car and remove the dirt and grease around the fuel filler plug. The plug is located on the side of the gearbox. Remove the stopper and put your fingertips into the holes. The oil should be roughly flush with the bottom edge of the hole. Use a plastic syringe to add oil as needed.
When the car is placed horizontally, clean the dirt and grease around the fuel filler plug. Remove the stopper and put your fingertips into the holes. The oil should be roughly flush with the bottom edge of the hole. If necessary, use a plastic syringe to add oil.
Post time: Jan-09-2021
